Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Are English wines good enough?

I wouldn't get too excited yet, but experts are saying that due to global warming, by the end of the century, the Sussex Downs could enjoy the same climate as the Medoc in Bordeaux. This is causing increased enthusiasm among English winemakers in Sussex, who are now planting grapes that make up champagne (chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier) just 80 miles north of the Champagne region, on similar chalk soils.

Now, England's 416 winegrowers produce just three million bottles, compared to France's eight billion, so there's a long way to go. But according to winemaker Stephen Skelton MW the industry is expanding fast, with a 50 per cent increase in plantings over the last 20 years.

So, if we do grow many more grapes, will people buy the wines? In this year's two biggest wine competitions, the International Wine Challenge and Decanter Wine Awards, English wines scooped 24 medals – and two top prizes went to Cornish and Kent bubbles.

The award-winning Cornish bubbles comes from Camel Valley near Bodmin moor – from a vineyard set up by ex-RAF-pilot Bob Lindo in 1989. His winemaking son Sam Lindo is wowing critics.

So what do English wines taste like? Well, they're vividly acidic and aromatic with crunchy apple, grapefruit, elderflower cordial flavours and a distinct hedgerow herbaceousness.

Alongside fizz, aromatic whites show most potential – particularly Martin Fowke's wines from Three Choirs in Gloucestershire. Rosés are improving, but reds are limited. One of the biggest snags is the price, and just in case you're asking, that's the biggest reason that we at 'The Hogget' can't get hold of the wines from our suppliers. Do remember our 2 house fizzes though, at £15.30 a bottle you can't get better!

Cheers!
Pete in sunny California.

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